*When Carolynn Carreño set out to bake her mother’s wedding cake, she avoided tiers and structural risks, instead making a collection of 9-inch carrot cakes adorned with fresh bougainvillea. The choice of flavor was never in question—carrot cake, just like the one her mother used to make.
Carrot cake, a moist, oil-based dessert dense with grated carrots and warming spices, has evolved over time. What started in the 1970s with about one cup of carrots per cup of flour now often includes up to three. The result isn’t a stronger carrot flavor—carrot cake rarely tastes like carrots—but rather a richer, darker, moister crumb.
Carreño has strong opinions about what makes a good carrot cake: it should be spiced generously, include toasted nuts (walnuts are her preference), and never be too light or airy. Fresh ginger adds a gingerbread-like depth. Raisins are optional; she skips them.
The cake’s origins remain unknown, but Carreño imagines it might have come from a 1970s health-conscious mind, perhaps even in Berkeley. Regardless, the health food boom of that era gave carrot cake a permanent place on the American table.
Her mother, stylish and health-forward, only allowed whole-grain bread and “natural” cereals in the house—but also introduced Carreño to the earthy delight of carrot cake. Her original recipe, clipped from a newspaper and oil-stained with age, was frosted with a cream cheese-orange juice mixture—no butter, just California simplicity.
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Years later, Carreño revisited the recipe. She baked multiple versions, tested frostings, and gathered friends for feedback sessions. “They’re all very Moosewood,” one friend noted, referencing the iconic 1970s vegetarian cookbook. Carreño agreed: “Carrot cake is supposed to be Moosewood.”
With its adaptable ingredients and forgiving nature, carrot cake continues to evolve. Whether you add pineapple, swap oils, or even try other root vegetables, its essence remains unchanged. Carrot cake, as Carreño sees it, is “the people’s cake”—a timeless, customizable dessert full of heart and history.
Read more at the Los Angeles Times.
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